How to ensure a cat tower / scratching post if free of fleas?
I want to buy a good scratching post for my cat. Either from a pet shop or 2nd hand. My pet shop allows pets into the shop. I am worried that the scratching post might have fleas.
How can I ensure it is flea free – or at least de-flea once I buy it?
If any pets had fleas that came near the post, it could be contaminated. Pets with fleas are like salt shakers – the adult fleas don’t usually jump off them but they lay hundreds off eggs which roll off the pet constantly and scatter. So the post may have eggs, larva or pupa.
Eggs and larva die pretty easily with an application of flea spray or powder. But absolutely nothing kills pupa – that’s what makes home flea infestations so difficult to deal with if you use the wrong methods. Vacuuming helps (and I would recommend doing it), but it won’t be 100% efficient.
So what you really need to do in order to prevent a major flea problem in your house is to keep all your pets on a good monthly flea preventative like Frontline, Advantage, etc. Pet store brands will not be as effective. If your pet is on a good topical, the pupa will have nowhere to go when they emerge as adults and they will die within 4-5 days.
If you buy it used, you should also run a black light over it to make sure it doesn’t have any urine stains (they will glow green under UV light). And if I were in your shoes, I’d make sure all my cats and dogs were on a good flea product starting before the new post came into the house and I’d keep them on it for at least two months (it can take 8 weeks for eggs to develop into adults). I’d give it a good vacuuming, but I wouldn’t bother with sprays or powders since household treatments like that are more toxic to pets. The Frontline will be just as effective whether or not you spray the post.






May 21st, 2010 at 10:24 am
You can spray it with a spray that kills adult fleas and keeps the eggs from hatching. Just make sure it is completely dry before giving to your cat. If you are thinking about a carpeted one, vacumming it first then spraying would be best. Be sure to do this outside and don’t bring it in until is is treated.
References :
May 21st, 2010 at 10:50 am
the same like previous answer
and leave it outside in the cold overnight will probably take them out,
but normally post in pet-stores are clean since nobody brings in cats to sit on.
Use a flee collar on your cat ( outdoor-cat ? )
References :
May 21st, 2010 at 11:19 am
Second hand may have more of a problem with the scent of another cat on the post/tower. Then you run the risk of a territorial "anointing".
But in a pet shop, a flea if it is even on a cat brought into the store, is not going to jump from a nice warm cat to a cold scratching post that provides no meal for a flea.
But before you put out money for a post, do you know if your cat likes a vertical scratching surface? Not all cats do. Often a post that is part of a cat tree is a good purchase, as most cats like a cat tree, since they can get up high. And if they use the scratching posts that are usually on a cat tree, that is a bonus.
References :
May 21st, 2010 at 11:50 am
fleas are not a big issue in a pet store. pets are not in there very long with their owners. there will not be fleas on a scratcher.
References :
see profile
May 21st, 2010 at 12:05 pm
Apply orthoboric acid or boric acid. There are several brands that you can purchase, including Flea Stoppers. Follow the directions on the package. The product works by drying out the flea eggs and larvae that are present in carpet or upolstery. The dried out flea eggs will not be able to hatch, effectively cutting off the fleas’ ability to thrive. Apply it in your garage or outdoors so that the fleas do not get in to your house. Then vacuum the dust off. The residue will be sufficient to prevent fleas from surviving on the scratching post. For more tips on dealing with fleas in your home or on your pet see the attached article.
References :
http://www.ehow.com/how_5204428_rid-fleas-pet-home.html
May 21st, 2010 at 12:38 pm
If any pets had fleas that came near the post, it could be contaminated. Pets with fleas are like salt shakers – the adult fleas don’t usually jump off them but they lay hundreds off eggs which roll off the pet constantly and scatter. So the post may have eggs, larva or pupa.
Eggs and larva die pretty easily with an application of flea spray or powder. But absolutely nothing kills pupa – that’s what makes home flea infestations so difficult to deal with if you use the wrong methods. Vacuuming helps (and I would recommend doing it), but it won’t be 100% efficient.
So what you really need to do in order to prevent a major flea problem in your house is to keep all your pets on a good monthly flea preventative like Frontline, Advantage, etc. Pet store brands will not be as effective. If your pet is on a good topical, the pupa will have nowhere to go when they emerge as adults and they will die within 4-5 days.
If you buy it used, you should also run a black light over it to make sure it doesn’t have any urine stains (they will glow green under UV light). And if I were in your shoes, I’d make sure all my cats and dogs were on a good flea product starting before the new post came into the house and I’d keep them on it for at least two months (it can take 8 weeks for eggs to develop into adults). I’d give it a good vacuuming, but I wouldn’t bother with sprays or powders since household treatments like that are more toxic to pets. The Frontline will be just as effective whether or not you spray the post.
References :
May 21st, 2010 at 1:06 pm
I’ve been told by vets not to bother with flea sprays etc to remove fleas from objects. The only thing worth using is the "spot-on" applicators you put on the back of the cat’s neck. E.g. Revolution, Frontline, Advantage, etc. You need to use these to make sure your cat is protected from fleas at all times. Anything else is a waste of money.
References :
owner of three cats
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